For a red wine pairing, turn to Rioja, that famous Spanish
region that has seen ups and downs in quality over its history, but is now
riding high on at least two decades of success both in the vineyards and
cellars. The reds in this region
are based on tempranillo, with garnacha, graciano, maturana tinta, and monastel
being permitted in the blend. As
in many other classic wine regions, there is a spectrum between traditional
production and the modern viewpoint, the latter emphasizing high degrees of
extraction and lots of new oak.
Everyone has their preference on this spectrum, but for the Asian beef I
recommend a traditional version, and in particular a reserva. By the
regulations, this means the wine will have aged for a minimum of three years,
including at least one year in oak barrels. This aging regimen will offer complexity and structure while
preserving the fruit character of the wine to complement the Asian spices on
the beef.
For a contrasting pairing, we will go in what will be an
unexpected direction for some. On
the left bank of the Garonne River in the southern part of Bordeaux, a unique
golden liquid is produced from sémillon, sauvignon blanc, and a bit of
muscadelle affected by the “noble rot,” courtesy of the fungus Botrytis cinerea. Under the appellations Sauternes and
Barsac, these are late-harvested wines that can be high in residual sugar, yet may
also have appreciable acidity when young.
Tradition has relegated them to the cheese or dessert course, to be
brought out for a special occasion after a couple of decades or more of bottle
age. But that same sweetness can
make them excellent foils for spicy appetizers and main dishes, provided they
retain their natural acidity. The
best part is that you won’t have to store them in your cellar for countless
years, waiting for the next generation to enjoy your purchase.
Complementary Pairing:
Rioja, Spain
Try: (Granja Nuestra Señora de) Remelluri Rioja
Reserva
[www.remelluri.com]
Vines have been planted on the site of this former monastery at the foot
of the Sierra de Cantabria since the fourteenth century. The tempranillo is joined by small
amounts of garnacha and graciano, which are individually fermented with natural
yeasts. Afterwards they spend a
year and a half aging in a mixture of new and used French and American oak, the
latter comprising roughly a third.
Winemaking has returned to the hands of the owning family, in the form
of the renowned Telmo Rodríguez, who produces internationally acclaimed wines
all over Spain.
Contrasting Pairing:
Barsac, Bordeaux, France
Try: Château Coutet Barsac
[www.chateaucoutet.com] This Premier Cru
Classé property is the largest estate in Barsac, with vines averaging 35
years of age, approximately three-fourths of which are sémillon. An even larger percentage of sémillon
comprises the grand vin, which ages
entirely in new oak. Currently
under the care of the Baly family, this château
is not only one of the preeminent estates in Barsac, but also a vocal proponent
of the versatility of Barsac and Sauternes for pairing with all sorts of foods.
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