Sunday, August 26, 2012

MRE Menu 5: Mediterranean Chicken


The name of the dish implies perhaps a more robust array of flavors and seasonings than is actually present in this poor piece of poultry, so the door to effective pairings is fairly wide open.  Why not add the faintest hint of citrus to your chicken with an aligoté from Burgundy?  While on the decline in acres planted due to a perceived lack of quality when yields aren’t properly managed, a few dedicated producers soldier on and attempt to return this once widespread varietal in the Côte d’Or to its former pre-phylloxera status.

For those of the school that a medium to full-bodied red is the perfect companion for any food short of lemon pound cake, consider a tinto from the Dão in Portugal.  Using similar varietals as their more famous neighbors in the Duoro who make both Porto and dry table wines, these reds offer broad possibilities for pairing with food, due to a diversity of mono-varietals and blends as well as fermentation and aging regimes.

Complementary Pairing:  Bourgogne Aligoté, France
Try:  Domaine Ponsot Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru Clos des Monts Luisants
[www.domaine-ponsot.com]  Formerly blended with some chardonnay, this is now 100% aligoté since the 2007 vintage, from vines planted almost a century ago.  You can be assured of quality not only from this domaine’s fine reputation, but also because this is the only Côte d’Or producer and appellation permitted to use aligoté in a 1er Cru blanc.

Contrasting Pairing:  Tinto, Dão, Portugal
Try:  Quinta dos Carvalhais Reserva Tinto
[www.quintadoscarvalhais.eu]  This blend is carefully selected and aged for a year in an almost even split of new and used French barriques.  Anticipate violet and balsamic aromas coupled with dark plum fruits and balancing acidity on the long finish.