Friday, September 14, 2012

Deployment Special Edition: Lobster Roll Redux—The Seafood Roll

Behold the Seafood Roll.  This alternative take on the Lobster Roll (see September 9th) combines canned shrimp and crab mixed with chopped celery, mayonnaise, and celery salt, served on a toasted hot dog bun brushed with melted butter.  With the exception of the bread and celery, all other items came via care packages.  Also pictured are the canapés, crackers with a smoked salmon spread, all produced by full-time deployment chef and part-time pediatric surgeon, Dr. Timothy Weiner.



This pairing challenge requires a wine that will complement the delicate seafood components, while also possessing enough acidity to make short work of the mayo.  Consider a “mountain wine” from the region of Savoie, in the French Alps on the border with Switzerland.  White grapes are the most prevalent plantings, represented by such varietals as jacquère, roussanne, altesse, chasselas, and gringet.  Jacquère is the most common of these, and is noted to have distinct aromas of white flowers and wet stone, followed by citrus and white stone fruits on the palate, with sometimes bracing acidity.

For a red wine to accompany the seafood roll, we will travel to Champagne.  A small number of still wines are produced here under the name Coteaux Champenois.  The area most likely to produce still red wines is the same one that specializes in the highest quality pinot noir, namely the Montagne de Reims.  Amongst the villages rated grand cru here, Bouzy has the most examples of still reds, where it is known as Bouzy Rouge.  From Burgundy in the south, pinot noir can deliver some of the most ageworthy and sought after wines in the world, but in the colder climate of Champagne, the wines tend to be lighter and of higher acidity, and destined for early drinking.  This lightness and acidity both make it a great match for the seafood roll.

Complementary Pairing:  Jacquère, Savoie, France
Try:  Domaine Jean Masson Apremont Vieilles Vignes [du Sieclé]
Apremont is the largest of the many appellations within the Savoie region.  Jean Masson has old vine plots high on the slopes of Mont Granier, on a noteworthy terroir of mixed chalk, limestone, and rock rubble from a landslide in the thirteenth century.  This is made entirely from jacquère, which can make a lackluster wine unless it is produced at low yields as it is here.

Contrasting Pairing:  Bouzy Rouge, Coteaux Champenois, France
Try:  Jean Vesselle Bouzy Rouge
[www.champagnejeanvesselle.fr]  This family-run winery represents the latest in three centuries of vignerons in Bouzy.  All of the fruit comes from their estate, making this house a récoltant-manipulant, the sparkling product of which is a so-called “grower Champagne.”  The still red wine is 100% pinot noir from vines of greater than 30 years of age.


The author enjoying the seafood roll so much that he can’t stuff it in his mouth fast enough.  “Could you please send the sommelier over to our table?”

Thursday, September 13, 2012

MRE Menu 20: Spaghetti with Meat Sauce


Lovers of Bordeaux have choices that span the globe, as the traditional varietals from here have migrated to every hemisphere, no matter how you slice it.  Since this dish is associated with Italy, that is where we will go to find a matching claret.  To some degree, these same cépages bordelais are ubiquitous throughout Italy in order to satisfy an international market, but today we will focus on the northern Italian region of Trentino.  This cooler climate region will yield wines of less unbridled power and alcohol, and more finesse.  With climate change a dynamic but slow process, a slight overall warming is helping the clarets from this region hit the perfect spot of ripeness, without hints of green or vegetal flavors.

For a white pairing for what most would consider a quintessentially red wine dish, let us consider another variety that has become ubiquitous worldwide—chardonnay.  From its traditional home in Burgundy, it has found success in many places, including California.  It is a grape that is quite capable of expressing its terroir, yet also the will of the winemaker.  Even in the confines of greater Napa and Sonoma, temperatures, altitude, and geology are widely variable.  Likewise, aging regimens range from pure stainless steel that leaves the emphasis on the fruit all the way to 100% new oak that can leave one with the sense of drinking liquid toast.  The best producers have struck a happy medium, growing or sourcing excellent fruit at low yields, and using a meticulous but gentle hand in the cellar.  To stand up to the meat sauce on the spaghetti, look for a California chardonnay that allows the minerality of some of its best growing regions to shine through, with just enough oak to add structure and subtle spice, and a bit of acidity on the finish.  If you close your eyes and can believe you’re drinking Burgundy, you’ve found the right one.

Complementary Pairing:  Claret, Trentino, Italy
Try:  Tenuta San Leonardo ‘San Leonardo’
[www.sanleonardo.it]  This claret is the grand vin, and is only produced in good to excellent vintage years.  It is composed of about 2/3 cabernet sauvignon and 1/3 cabernet franc, with merlot as a minor stakeholder.  Each variety is aged separately in a mixture of new and used French barriques in the style of Bordeaux, before being blended and bottled for another year of aging before release.

Contrasting Pairing:  Chardonnay, California, USA
Try:  Ramey Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard
[www.rameywine.com]  Winemaker David Ramey sources this fruit from 40 year-old vines in the center of the Russian River Valley.  This single-vineyard expression offers up tropical fruits and minerals together with herbs and spices on the finish.  While a substantial portion is aged in new French oak, these flavors are invariably well integrated and balanced with the acidity.

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

MRE Menu 19: Sloppy Joe


It scarcely seems fair to name this MRE “Sloppy Joe,” given that the contents of all 24 MREs could easily be called “sloppy.”  Nonetheless, the ground beef in sauce base of the dish lends itself to a red wine of some stature, with those of the southern Rhône being worthy contenders.  These are typically predominantly grenache, with mouvèdre and syrah being common in lesser amounts in the blend, although a host of varieties are authorized.  Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the well-known appellation here, but neighboring Gigondas and Vacqueyras offer a similar style, which is sometimes characterized as more rustic, but at greater value.  The climate achieves a warmth that produces high sugar levels, and thus high alcohol levels, which may be just the thing to help you forget how “sloppy” this MRE happens to be.

In lieu of a white wine for contrast, let’s look to a rosé.  We’ll head south from the Rhône to Provence, which is most well known for its rosé production over whites and reds.  The mix of varieties is similar to its northerly neighbors in the southern Rhône, except that mouvèdre must now comprise the majority of the blend.  It is a warm climate, and the vignerons must watch their grapes closely to ensure they do not become overripe.  In addition to flavors of various red berries, spicy and earthy notes are common.

Complementary Pairing:  Gigondas, Rhône, France
Try:  Domaine La Bouïssiere Gigondas ‘La Font du Tonin’
This is the tête de cuvée for this domaine, made almost entirely of grenache with just a bit of mouvèdre, and grown at their highest sites on the slopes of the Dentelles de Montmirail.  A non-interventionalist approach in the cellar seeks to highlight the fruit with the use of one and two year old barrels, and no fining or filtering.  This wine combines the typical dark fruit, earth, and spice of Gigondas with a bit of finesse from the higher elevation and cooler temperatures.

Contrasting Pairing:  Bandol Rosé, Provence, France
Try:  Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé
[www.domainetempier.fr]  This domaine was a pioneer in establishing Bandol as an official appellation, and led the way with replanting mouvèdre in their vineyards.  The blend for the rosé is half mouvèdre, with the balance coming from grenache, cinsault, and a bit of carignan, all grown on clay and limestone soils.

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

MRE Menu 18: Beef Ravioli


The Taliban were busy little bees today, so much so that I thought I wouldn’t be able to produce today’s MRE pairing.  But I don’t want to let them win even the tiniest victory on September 11th, so I’m pressing forward with the blog.  Without further ado:

This beef dish of some richness would pair well with a full-bodied red, and for that we’ll venture to southern Tuscany.  Here, in the vicinity of Montalcino, sangiovese achieves one of its highest expressions as Brunello.  This designation indicates geography, use of only sangiovese, and an extensive aging requirement.  As with other parts of Tuscany, some producers have adopted a modernist approach with the aging of sangiovese in new French barriques to create a wine that is more approachable in its youth and widely acceptable to an “international palate.”  Other producers cling to traditional methods of aging their wines in large Slavonian oak barrels from Croatia, such that the influence of the barrel is the way that the developing wine interacts with its environment more so than any flavors imparted directly by the wood.  Particularly for the wines produced in a more traditional manner, additional bottle age will help soften the tannins and bring out the secondary flavors of earth and tobacco to merge with the dark cherry fruit of the wine in its youth.  Bottles consumed less than a decade after the vintage deserve decanting for an hour or more to bring out their best qualities.

For contrast, consider white wines made from godello, a native white grape of increasing popularity from the northwest of Spain, particularly Valdeorras and Monterrei in Galicia, and Bierzo in Castilla y Leon.  Along with primary flavors such as white stone fruits and pineapple, in addition to spice notes like anise, godello is adept at expressing the minerality of its place of origin, and ends with refreshing acidity.  Production ranges from aging in all stainless steel to extensive use of new oak, although the latter style is easily overdone with this particular varietal, so choose your winemaker carefully.

Complementary Pairing:  Brunello di Montalcino, Toscana, Italy
Try:  Baricci Brunello di Montalcino
The vineyards are well situated to the north of the town of Montalcino, on the farm Colombaio di Montosoli.  This is pure tradition in the cellar with aging only in large Slavonian oak botti.  There is no riserva, so the best grapes all go into the normale.  Then again, when you are #1 of the original 27 founding members of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, you probably don’t need a riserva, or a website, or a fancy tasting room.  You just need to make quality Brunello year after year, and the Baricci family is eminently successful at that.

Contrasting Pairing:  Godello, Bierzo, Spain
Try:  Luna Beberide Godello LB
[www.lunabeberide.es]  From 60 year old vines, these grapes undergo a temperature-controlled fermentation, followed by aging in stainless steel tanks.  The wine leads with diverse aromas, from flowers to fennel, followed by flinty mineral notes and spices on the palate.  The acidity on the finish is the key to the effective pairing with the pasta and beef filling.

Since it’s September 11, let’s take a moment to pause and reflect.  Pictured above is the sign at the entrance to our Forward Surgical Team building in Afghanistan.  It is dedicated to the memory of Special Operator Third Class Denis C. Miranda, a Corpsman and Navy SEAL who was killed while conducting combat operations in this province in 2010.  Let us never forget his sacrifice, and the ultimate sacrifice made by all those who have died before and since to defend freedom in the global war on terrorism.

Monday, September 10, 2012

MRE Menu 17: Maple Sausage


This menu almost cries out that it is a faux brunch, demanding a fine Champagne.  The sausage needs a pairing with both body and acidity to slice through its hefty fat content.  Look no farther than the chalky slopes of the Côte de Blancs, home to the finest chardonnay vineyards in Champagne.  A blanc de blancs uses only chardonnay, which will lend flavors of apple and pear that become more golden with bottle age, as well as a firm backbone of acidity and a delightful minerality from all that chalk.  Because the maple sausage has a bit of sweetness to it, the Champagne will require a hint of the same.  A brut should have just the right amount from its dosage, but the perception may instead be of a rich mouthfeel and biscuit notes that lean more towards brioche, which sounds like the perfect brunch accompaniment to a foil pouch of lukewarm sausage.

A heavy red would overpower the sausage, but the concentrated fruits and moderate tannins of lagrein from Südtirol (Alto Adige) in northern Italy provide flavors that will be additive to the dish with smothering it.  It is a wine that lends itself to barrel aging to tame a bit of astringency on the finish, but beware of the overuse of new oak that will not permit the fruit to shine through.  As mentioned above, the fat in the sausage needs a wine with acidity to balance it, and lagrein delivers.  You may find hints of smoke and a bit of minerality, but ripe fruits are always at the core.

Complementary Pairing:  Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France
Try:  Veuve Fourny et Fils Millésimé Brut Blanc de Blancs Vertus Premier Cru
[www.champagne-veuve-fourny.com]  This maison is technically a négociant-manipulant and not a “grower Champagne,” but only in the sense that some of their fruit is purchased.   This is mostly a consequence of the inheritance laws requiring the division of land amongst the heirs of each generation, such that they are primarily buying from family. In fact, they embody their motto of “une Famille, un Clos, un Premier Cru.”  Charles-Henry and Emmanuel Fourny currently lead the house, which has vineyard sites in Vertus with underlying chalk and chalky gravel and various south and east expositions, including the Clos Notre-Dame.  Initial aging of the base wines for this vintage Champagne takes place in both steel and oak casks, prior to spending at least 5 years on the lees in the bottle before dégorgement. 

Contrasting Pairing:  Lagrein, Südtirol (Alto Adige), Italy
Try:  Kellerei Bozen Lagrein Riserva ‘Taber’
[www.kellereibozen.com]  This group of growers anchored in Bozen is actually the union of two previously separate cooperatives, Gries and St. Magdalena.  The grapes come from the Taber vineyard in Gries, which is the traditional source for the finest lagrein.  This particular selection was originally from the cooperative of St. Magdalena, and is still labeled with that name.  With only a minority of the oak barrels being new, this wine offers tremendous concentration with perfect balance.

Sunday, September 9, 2012

Deployment Special Edition: The Lobster Roll


This is the gastronomic pinnacle of an Afghanistan deployment—the lobster roll.    
The roll with its component ingredients:  a toasted [hot dog] bun brushed with melted butter and filled with a mix of lobster tail, chopped celery, mayonnaise, and celery salt, with the latter two ingredients courtesy of a care package from home.



This rare royal feast for the taste buds demands a wine of equally noble pedigree, such as a white wine from Pessac-Leognan, on the left bank of the Garonne in the southwest corner of Bordeaux.  Composed of sauvignon blanc and sémillon grown on well-drained gravel and sand with a large percentage of quartz, the whites of Pessac-Leognan offer a unique minerality not found elsewhere in the region.  Variable degrees of wood treatment in the cellar lead to a spectrum of styles that range from fruit-forward with assertive acidity on one end, all the way to full-bodied and creamy versions that require several years of bottle age to achieve integration of the oak.  The richness and delicacy of the lobster would best be served by a style somewhere in the middle of this spectrum.

While it is a somewhat rich dish compared to many other seafood preparations, most red wines would still overwhelm this lobster roll.  But not the food-friendly blaufränkisch, a common variety found in Austria, Germany (where it is known as lemberger), and throughout eastern Europe, where it has a reputation of being a bit rustic.  Common flavors include dark fruits such as berries and cherries, with various spice elements and moderate tannins.  Avoid producers who rely on the heavy-handed use of new oak, which will overpower both the wine itself and the elegant lobster filling.

Complementary Pairing:  Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux, France
Try:  Château Larrivet Haut-Brion Blanc
[www.larrivethautbrion.fr]  Now owned by the quality-conscious Gervoson family,  the vines are about 20 years of age, with a slight predominance of sauvignon blanc over sémillon in the vineyard.  The élevage takes place for 12 months in new oak, with the frequency of bâtonnage varying by the characteristics of the vintage.  Flavors include citrus and stone fruits on the front, while the oak treatment adds a rich texture along with vanilla and spices.  There is suitable refreshing acidity on the finish to balance the melted butter and mayonnaise in the lobster roll.

Contrasting Pairing:  Blaufränkisch, Burgenland, Austria
Try:  Weingut Moric Blaufränkisch ‘Moric’
[www.moric.at]  The label with Moric in large letters is the reserve bottling of blaufränkisch from Roland Velich.  This comes from vineyards in Neckenmarkt and Lutzmannsberg, which have vines of up to a century old.  The produce of the oldest of these goes into his site-specific “alte reben” (old-vine) bottlings, but the average vine age in the reserve wine is still 40.  His winemaking style brings an unusual elegance and finesse to this variety, leading to frequent comparisons to the Côte d’Or, and villages such as Volnay in particular.  With minimal use of new oak, the wine presents floral aromatics, together with bright red fruit, cassis, pepper, and spices.



The deployment capo cuoco di tutti capocuochi, Dr. Timothy Weiner, mixing the lobster roll filling and proving his dominance over all other chefs in Afghanistan for creating this luxurious seafood dish smack in the middle of the desert.
An estimated 20 brave lobsters unwillingly gave their tails to provide the contents of this bin in preparation for an outdoor lobster roll feast.  Chef Weiner draws his lobster roll inspiration from his long-standing imaginary friendship with former First Lady Barbara Bush and her patronage of The Clam Shack in Kennebunkport.

Saturday, September 8, 2012

MRE Menu 16: Pork Rib


The theoretical delicate smokiness of this pork rib demands smoky elements in the accompanying wine, such as those from syrah hailing from the northern Rhône.  The appellations that prescribe red wine production here allow for the blending of a small amount of white grapes to add aromatics and complexity, save for one—Cornas.  Located near the southern end of the valley, these wines have traditionally been considered among the more rustic of the northern Rhône.  This reputation is changing due to an increasing emphasis on attention to detail and low yields in the vineyard combined with better techniques in the cellar.  Common flavors are dark fruits such as currants and blackberries, with minerality coming from the granite underneath.

In the sense of being a wine that comes white wine grapes, the “orange wines” of Friuli in northeastern Italy are white wines, and they have the structure to match the pork rib, with enough acidity to cut through the abundant fat hidden within.  So-called orange wines are produced from white grapes left in prolonged contact with the skins, which results in a variable degree of orange tint to the finished wine.  Although this technique is essentially an ancient wine, it has seen a recent revival amongst producers in Friuli, and in particular the area of Carso, which is adjacent to Trieste and on the border with Slovenia.  The resulting wines are frequently bottled unfiltered, and may appear cloudy in the glass, with the presence of abundant grape skin tannins not normally found in white wines.

Complementary Pairing:  Cornas, Rhône, France
Try:  Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas ‘Les Ruchets’
[www.vinscolombo.fr]  This is the grand vin from this leader in the renaissance of quality production in Cornas.  From vines farmed organically of up to 90 years of age, it spends two years maturing in oak.  The philosophy of this domaine is that wine is meant to pair with food, so despite the powerful syrah, these wines are inevitably balanced, with finesse and expressiveness of origin.

Contrasting Pairing:  Carso “orange wine”, Friuli, Italy
Try:  Vodopivec Vitovska Amphora
[www.vodopivec.it]  Like other vineyards in Carso, the vines are planted on limestone bedrock.  The grape variety is vitovska, which practically exists only in Friuli and neighboring Slovenia.  This version is macerated with its skins for 6 months in traditional vessels, clay amphorae from Georgia (the former Soviet republic, not the US state).  Expect this wine to be a unique experience that will change dramatically in the glass as it breathes, variously showing elements of stone fruits, herbs, smoke, and the limestone upon which it is grown.

Friday, September 7, 2012

MRE Menu 15: Mexican Style Chicken Stew


This meal potentially packs some heat, but not the thermal kind (which is generally lacking in all of the MREs).  There is plenty of fiery spice here, especially if you make use of the accompanying packet of ground red pepper.  Conventional wisdom suggests that a wine with some residual sugar will help subdue the heat.  Hopefully there will some acidity as well to aid in refreshing your palate as you go, so that your mouth is not continuously on fire.  Various styles of German riesling offer up both of these traits, but finding the right version can be tricky.  While great for many other dishes, the dry versions, labeled “trocken,” aren’t the ideal match for this MRE.  Assuming they are not also labeled trocken, you can expect to find progressively increasing amounts of residual sugar in those marked “spätlese” and “auslese.”  The higher sugar levels in these versions are generally assumed to accompany longer periods of ripening on the vine before harvest, with an associated increase in phenolic ripeness.  Climate change is blurring this situation a bit, but the aforementioned generalizations are a good starting point.  For this particular MRE, I recommend a spätlese unless you really intend to turn up the heat with the red pepper, when an auslese might be appropriate.

For a red, we can turn to the “lost” sixth bordelais varietal, carmenère.  Although not replanted in any significant amount in Bordeaux following widespread loss from oidium and phylloxera in the nineteenth century, it has found a new home as the signature red grape of Chile, despite having been planted there unrecognized for the better part of a century and a half.  Thriving in the dry climate of areas such as the Colchagua Valley, it produces wines of medium body and tannins, with red or black fruits mixed with spices and elements of earth, leather, and tobacco.

Complementary Pairing:  Riesling Spätlese, Nahe, Germany
Try:  Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese
[www.doennhoff.com]  This wine comes from the top producer in the Nahe, and he would be a contender for the top spot for all of Germany.  Hermannshöhle in Niederhausen is perhaps his best cru, with a base of slate and volcanic rock.  The nose should offer a mélange of citrus notes, with the same on the palate accompanying a core of slate minerality.

Contrasting Pairing:  Carmenère, Colchagua Valley, Chile
Try:  Viña Montes Purple Angel
[www.monteswines.com]  In this case the carmenère is blended with a bit of petit verdot, and comes from the Marchigue and the famous Apalta estates.  After spending 18 months in new French oak, it is bottled unfiltered.  This particular regimen leads to typical red fruits on the nose, followed by black fruits and hints of chocolate on the palate.  The tannins are soft and sweet, which will serve as an ideal foil for the spice of the dish.


Note for the Detail-Oriented:  “Carmenère” is the common spelling used in Chile and the one used in this post.  In French it is carménère, and it also appears as carmenere throughout the world.

Thursday, September 6, 2012

MRE Menu 14: Ratatouille


Lest the name of this MRE suggest something more, this dish is ultimately an amorphous vegetarian mass presented in a sturdy foil pouch without the pronounced garlic and herbs one might expect from the restaurant version.  For a suitable red wine, let’s turn to a traditional area, Rioja, and a traditional varietal, graciano.  Normally this would be a minor addition to the dominant tempranillo-based blends from this region, but a few producers are vinifying it on its own so that you can appreciate its intrinsic contribution.  Naturally low-yielding, it has pleasing aromatics and refreshing acidity, which is just the thing to cut through the thick mass of vegetable mush in your MRE.

A white wine to pair with this dish mainly needs enough body to match the overcooked vegetables.  In this case the wine itself will essentially act as the seasoning, and the seasoning du jour is viognier.  As a mono-varietal wine, viognier has surfaced here and there in a few New World locations outside of its traditional home in the northern Rhone appellations of Condrieu and Château Grillet.  In Virginia, however, it has arisen as practically the signature white grape of the state, despite fewer acres planted than the universally ubiquitous chardonnay.  Viognier from this area has evolved from an élevage exclusively in stainless steel to some versions now seeing a bit of oak treatment.  This change in winemaking philosophy has led to increased structure and a corresponding broader range of potential pairings with food.

Complementary Pairing:  Graciano, Rioja, Spain
Try:  Dinastía Vivanco Colección Vivanco Parcelas de Graciano
[www.dinastiavivanco.com]  This humble blending grape gets the royal treatment, starting with a careful triage, destemming, and pressing, with transport only via gravity feed.  Each parcel is fermented separately in oak vats before transfer to a variety of new American and French oak barrels for a year and a half of aging without racking, and is then bottled unfined and unfiltered.  Enjoy the black fruits with a sprinkling of cocoa on top, ending with a lengthy finish.

Contrasting Pairing:  Viognier, Virginia, USA
Try:  Chester Gap Cellars Viognier Reserve, Rappahannock County
[www.chestergapcellars.com]  In a short period of time, Bernd and Kristi Jung have taken their vines, planted in 2000 with an easterly exposition on steep slopes, and used them to reach the pinnacle of quality viognier production in Virginia.  They utilize just a gentle kiss of French oak to add creamy structure to the wine, while in no way subjugating the expression of this variety’s distinctive aromatics and white stone fruit flavors.

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

MRE Menu 13: Cheese Tortellini


A Note from the Taliban:  We apologize for interrupting the posting of yesterday’s blog with our continued hostilities throughout southern Afghanistan.  We will try to be more considerate of the wine and food loving public in the future.


And now for today’s pairing.  The pasta in this case is neutral in terms of flavor, texture, nutritional value, and so forth, so the key element for the pairing is the processed cheese food inside.  Almost acting like a compote, the dark cherry of a Central Otago pinot noir from New Zealand will harmonize with and stand up next to the dense cheese in the tortellini.  With quality producers here judiciously using proven winemaking techniques and barrels from this variety’s spiritual home in France, the intense fruit will be balanced by spicy notes and streaks of minerality reflective of the local terroir.

Desirable characteristics for a white wine pairing would be acidity to cut through the fat in the cheese, yet with enough structure to stand up to its strong flavors.  Such a wine can be found in northeastern Italy in the region of Friuli, made from tocai friulano.  Nutty notes on the finish will serve to bring out the very best from this substandard cheese.

Complementary Pairing:  Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand
Try:  Quartz Reef Bendigo Estate Pinot Noir
[www.quartzreef.co.nz]  The production here mirrors a Burgundian model.  The grapes are mostly destemmed, with a small percentage of whole clusters depending on the vintage, and are then given a cold soak before the start of a temperature-controlled fermentation.  After the completion of fermentation and additional maceration, the wine goes into mostly new barriques, and will be fined but not filtered prior to bottling.

Contrasting Pairing:  Friulano, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
Try:  Schiopetto Collio Friulano
[www.schiopetto.it]  This classic expression of friulano comes from vines over 40 years old planted on marl.  In order to preserve the purity of the fruit, aging is in all stainless steel tanks for approximately 8 months.  Look for floral aromatics, with golden pear and almonds on the palate.